Adds 12V rechargeable Lithium Ion battery to the Numark PT01
Parts needed:
12V rechargeable battery
DC plug (2.1mm x 5.1mm)
Picture hanging Strips (optional, or can be substituted):
notes:
-Disconnect the rechargeable battery from the PT01, when powering the PT01 from a wall supply.
-Charge the battery by disconnecting the DC plug from the battery, and charge it using it’s supplied charging wall supply.
-The battery power switch must be on, while charging the battery (explained in the battery instructions, but are in Chinese)
-Turn the battery power switch off, when not in use to save charge (not required).
-see LM7805 data sheet for more info on the PT01 regulator (actual part number is LM7809)
-Connect Wires to the PT01 Power Supply Input
For PT01 or PT01USB (see step 1b for PT01-Scratch):
1a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB (not PT01-Scratch), solder a GND wire (black) to the center pin (pin 2) of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
2a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB, solder a power wire (red) to pin 1 of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
For PT01-Scratch:
1b. On the PT01-Scratch power supply PCB, solder the GND and Power wires to the bottom side of the DC input connector (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
-Connect DC Plug
3. Confirm whether the center pin of the DC plug needs to be + or – by reading the label on your rechargeable battery. The center pin is + for the battery listed above.
4. If using the battery listed above, solder the red wire to the center pin of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)
5. If using the battery listed above, solder the black wire to the outer ring of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)
-Mount Battery
6. The battery can be mounted however you like. I like the using the picture hanging strips listed above. One strip is mounted on the wall of the PT01 within the battery compartment (sticky side against wall), and one strip gets mounted on the battery (sticky side against battery). I put a set of strips on 2 sides of the battery (example: side and top). This is rock solid, and allows the battery to be removed, if necessary (see pic3_Battery_placement).
Would the 6000 mah battery also fit the PT01 or just the 3800 mah?
The outer dimensions of the batteries vary. Best way to check is the do a quick measurement of the PT01’s battery compartment with a ruler, and compare it to the dimensions listed for your battery. The battery I listed fits with lots of wiggle room.
If you’re talking about the 6000mah version of this battery it’s a bit bigger according to amazons info.
https://www.amazon.com/HitLights-Rechargeable-Lithium-Battery-Strip/dp/B00U2PVX36/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1490131666&sr=8-3&keywords=12v%2Brechargeable%2Blithium%2Bbattery&th=1
There’s also a Rechargeable External DC 20,000 mah for 5V output and 9,800 mah for 12V. You’ll just have to grind the plastic … you can put an external male female USB to power other sources while you’re using it as well …
https://www.ebay.com/itm/142236866704
Here’s a mod using that on my set up. 🙂 not the cleanest but, I rushed through it..
https://youtu.be/7ioQrqbPsEU
Can I use the DC plug I received form purchasing the 3d tonearm?
Yes sir!! That’s exactly what it’s for!
Thank you so much for your work! I was wondering if, instead of soldering to the board, if you can plug the battery pack straight into the pt-01 power input?
I haven’t tried it. It depends on the voltage drop across the diode rectifier.
There is a diode rectifier at the power supply input, which converts the AC input to DC. Sending DC through it should just drop the DC voltage a bit because of the diode drop. After the drop, you’d need at least 11 VDC to drive the 9V regulator. So, if the diode drop is less than 1 volt, then it should be fine.
All that said, it’s much easier to travel with the battery installed. Plus, the mod only requires soldering 2 wires…
Yo Flesh O.N.E.!
I noticed you put “DC plug (2.1mm x 5.1mm)” as the hyperlink but it goes to the DC plug measured at “2.1mm x 5.5mm”
Does it matter?
Thats the outer diameter size. Both 5.1mm and 5.5mm fit. I use 5.5mm, which is what I could find on Amazon.
The inner diameter size (2.1mm) is more important.
Noob question:
Why can’t you just snip/desolder and use the black and red wires that are in the battery compartment to connect the battery pack plug tip to? Is soldering to the PT01 power supply input PCB required?
The wires in the battery compartment power the unregulated 9V rail in the Numark. The rechargeable battery is 12V.
What black and red wires do you use?
I usually use 22awg wire I have laying around. You can get pre-wired plugs from Amazon, too.
Could I esssentially just wire up a 9v battery to the battery terminals underneath my PT01 Scratch? I’d really like to run my 25 watt solar into it.
I don’t see why not. But that input is unregulated. Don’t let your supply go over 9V, because the numark wont stop it from doing damage.
I just did the mod and decided to test to see if I could charge the battery via the DC plug on the outside of the PT01. The charger turns red as if plugged directly into the battery as long as the PT01 power switch is in the on position. Is this a safe way to charge the battery?
No, don’t do that.
Hey fleshing,
Thank you for all your work. Before I try and get a bigger battery in there, how long does the 3500mAh typically last in the PT01 before charging?
Also, do you know if the Start/Stop switches on openformat are latching type? or just momentary (that would seem silly though).
Thanks again.
Depends on what mods you have in your PT01. It will certainly last a day of scratching. I charge mine once every few weeks, or before I know I’m taking it somewhere.
You’d have to ask openformat about their switches.
Thank you Sir for the fast reply.
So on your switch, what am i searching for. A latching or momentary type? I also see SPST used.
But I cannot find a 24mm latching arcade button.
Crazy!!!!
If it’s a pushbutton, it should be latching.
SPST (single pole, single throw) just says you’re only switching one signal, which is what you need.
“Arcade” buttons are momentary. Games require momentary buttons.
The latching arcade button is openformat’s mod. I can’t help you find his button.
There are other latching pushbuttons on Amazon here
Hi Fleshone,
Thanks again. I got the battery installed but I have a question.
The PT01S power light stays on whether the on/off button on the turntable is switched.
The only way to turn off the turntable is by the switch on the lithium ion battery correct?
I just want to make sure that is the right way and I didn’t fudge something up.
Thanks again. Next the preamp and tonearm
The red light on the front panel should turn off, when you turn off the power switch on the side of the turntable. Make sure you have the wires connected to the right place on the regulator.You should always turn off the switch on the battery, when you’re not using it. It will save battery power.
I updated the tutorial. The PT01-Scratch has a different power switch circuit.
Wow, this solved a problem for me! Thanks. I was wondering why nothing was working properly when I tapped in to my voltage regulator on the PT01 scratch. I was trying to get power off of it for an led latching switch and it’s been doing my head in.
Glad it helped!
can i use a usb power bank for this?
like this one if it fits?
https://www.amazon.ca/Aukey-10000mAh-Portable-External-Qualcomm/dp/B014R1ADPE/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486576218&sr=1-9&keywords=power+bank
It looks like it only has USB out, which is 5V. So, it won’t work.
Hi – great work on this blog fleshone.
Would this work? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B013HXKZYW/
It has 12v dc out in addition to USB and has powered bigger devices such as Octatracks etc.
I get confused when I see lsitings for 12v AC (not DC) replacement adaptors.
I have pt01 scratch but assuming it is identical power-wise to the previous pt01.
Thanks for your time
K
If you set it to 12V it should be fine for powering the PT01.
Check the size, though. It looks too big to fit in the battery slot.
Could you have it connected to a wall supply instead so you don’t have to charge it? I want to do the tone arm and preamp but didn’t want to have to charge the battery just to use the turntable with the other mods.
You’d have to disconnect the rechargeable battery by unplugging the dc connector that goes into the rechargeable battery.
Then, you can use the wall supply.
Don’t use the wall supply, when the battery is connected.
Please help if you can my homie has the lithium battery mod with no soldering needed. He installed a new tone arm, ortofon cartridge, preamp, arcadestart and stop and everything was working perfect for about 60 seconds then the battery died. He did not know when you charge the battery that it had to be on and it was not charging. He said he plugged the power cord in on the original side plug in and turned it on. it made a feedback or statick sound from the speaker and he turned it off immediately he thought he smelled a burning smell briefly but wasn’t sure turned out he plugged 12v 1000mah instead of the 500 wall adapter. My question is do you think he fried the battery or is it the voltage regulator? Any info you got will help I had issues with my battery but bought a new one and it works I did notice on his when you plug in the rechargeable battery and hit the on switch the battery light goes off. I have read a lot of people say do not use the wall charger when you have the rechargeable battery but no one explains what happens or what to do if you do that on accident let me know if you can he’s got a lot of work into his deck and I know how it feels to put a ton of work into something and have it not work cuz of a accident thank you for your time and I luv your tonearm
I missed this comment. I hoped you figured out what happened.
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