Posted on 36 Comments

Rechargeable Battery Install

Featured Video Play Icon

 

Adds 12V rechargeable Lithium Ion battery to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
12V rechargeable battery
DC plug (2.1mm x 5.1mm)
Picture hanging Strips (optional, or can be substituted):

notes:
-Disconnect the rechargeable battery from the PT01, when powering the PT01 from a wall supply.
-Charge the battery by disconnecting the DC plug from the battery, and charge it using it’s supplied charging wall supply.
-The battery power switch must be on, while charging the battery (explained in the battery instructions, but are in Chinese)
-Turn the battery power switch off, when not in use to save charge (not required).
-see LM7805 data sheet for more info on the PT01 regulator (actual part number is LM7809)

-Connect Wires to the PT01 Power Supply Input
For PT01 or PT01USB (see step 1b for PT01-Scratch):
1a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB (not PT01-Scratch), solder a GND wire (black) to the center pin (pin 2) of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)
2a. On the PT01 or PT01USB power supply PCB, solder a power wire (red) to pin 1 of the LM7809 regulator (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)

pic1_PT01_regulator
pic1_PT01_regulator

For PT01-Scratch:
1b. On the PT01-Scratch power supply PCB, solder the GND and Power wires to the bottom side of the DC input connector (see pic_1_PT01_regulator)

pic_1b_PT01_Scratch
pic_1b_PT01_Scratch

-Connect DC Plug
3. Confirm whether the center pin of the DC plug needs to be + or – by reading the label on your rechargeable battery. The center pin is + for the battery listed above.
4. If using the battery listed above, solder the red wire to the center pin of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)

pic2_DC_plug
pic2_DC_plug

5. If using the battery listed above, solder the black wire to the outer ring of the DC plug (see pic_2_DC_plug)

-Mount Battery
6. The battery can be mounted however you like. I like the using the picture hanging strips listed above. One strip is mounted on the wall of the PT01 within the battery compartment (sticky side against wall), and one strip gets mounted on the battery (sticky side against battery). I put a set of strips on 2 sides of the battery (example: side and top). This is rock solid, and allows the battery to be removed, if necessary (see pic3_Battery_placement).

pic3_Battery_placement
pic3_Battery_placement
Posted on 17 Comments

Preamp Modification – PP444

Featured Video Play Icon

 

Adds a Pyle PP444 Preamp to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
Pyle Pro PP444
-Hook-up wire for connections

notes:
-the 12V rechargeable battery mod is highly recommended for use with this preamp mod
-the rechargeable battery mod, which gets regulated by the PT01, will remove power supply noise injected into the preamp by unregulated 9V D cell batteries
-the rechargeable battery mod is not required if you only use the wall power supply (it is regulated by the PT01).

-Disassemble PP444
1. unbox pp444
2. remove 4 housing screws from the PP444 and remove cover
3. remove 2 PCB screws
4. remove 2 panel mount screws (screws by RCA connectors)
5. remove PCB from enclosure

-Connect Tonearm Wires to PP444 Input
6. On the PT01 PCB, unsolder tonearm wires from J8, J9, and J16 (L_in, GND, and R_in)
7. Solder these wires to the bottom side of the PP444 PCB. see pic_1_tonarm_wires_to_pp444

pic_1_tonearm_wires_to_pp444
pic_1_tonearm_wires_to_pp444

-Connect PP444 Output to Numark PT01 Input
8. On the PT01 PCB, remove the 4 mounting screws.
9. On the PT01 PCB, unsolder and remove capacitors C8 and C18. see pic_2_c8_c18, and pic3_c8_c18_removed

pic_2_C8_C18
pic_2_C8_C18
pic_3_C8_C18_removed
pic_3_C8_C18_removed

10. On the PT01 PCB, solder 3 new wires to the 3 locations shown in pic_4_PT01_input

pic_4_PT01_input
pic_4_PT01_input

11. On the bottom side of the PP444 PCB, solder these 3 wires to the location shown in pic_5_PP444_output

pic_5_PP444_output
pic_5_PP444_output

-Connect the 9V Power Supply of the PT01 to the PP444
12. On the bottom side of the PP444 PCB, solder 2 new wires to the location shown in pic_6_PP444_9V_power

pic_6_PP444_9V_power
pic_6_PP444_9V_power

13. On the bottom side of the PT01 PCB, connect these 2 wires to pins 2 and 3 of TE11. see pic_7_PT01_9V_output

pic_7_PT01_9V_output
pic_7_PT01_9V_output

-Quick Test Before Final Install
14. Reassemble the turntable (no need for screws) and test for functionality. Use the wall power supply to power the PT01.

-Final install
15. Hot glue all of the new solder points. This acts as a strain relief for the wires.
16. Reinstall the PT01 PCB with 4 screws
17. Wrap the PP444 PCB with electrical tape or polyimide (kapton) tape (see pic_8_PP444_tape). This is to avoid any potential shorts between the PP444 PCB, and the PT01

pic_8_PP444_tape
pic_8_PP444_tape

18. Set the PP444 PCB on top of the PT01 PCB (see pic_9_PP444_location),with the RCA connectors of the PP444 PCB facing the battery compartment.

pic_9_PP444_location
pic_9_PP444_location

19. Reassemble the turntable.

Extra credit:
-On the PP444 PCB, remove all of the large connectors (RCA, etc.). This is not required, but will make it much smaller. This will make step 19 easier.

Posted on 8 Comments

3D Printed Tonearm Install

Featured Video Play Icon

 

Adds an m44-7 Compliant Tonearm to the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
3D printed tonearm
needle nose pliers

notes:
-connecting the shure m44-7 to a stock PT01 reduces audio output loudness (due to cartridge/preamp mismatch)
-the preamp mod is highly recommended for use with the m44-7, which boosts the m44-7 loudness
-this tonearm mod improves skating, when bouncing
-add platter bars for best bounce performance

-Remove Existing Tonearm
1. See tonearm removal guide

-Bend Small Wires
2. Bend the small wires to a 90 degree angle form the wire housing to make an “L” shape (see pic_1_L_shape_wire)

pic_1_L_shape_wire
pic_1_L_shape_wire

-Install wire
2. Starting at the back side of the tonearm, and place the thick insulated part of the wire in the trough of the tonearm.
3. Slide the thick part of the wire along the trough towards the headshell. Allow the small wires to pass through the tight restraint sections of the tonearm. Don’t pull on the small wires. Just push the thick part of the wire, and guide the small wires through the restraint (see pic_2_wire install)

pic_2_wire_install
pic_2_wire_install

4. Continue sliding the wire through the tonearm until the small wires reach the headshell (see pic_3_wire_install_2)

pic_3_wire_install_2
pic_3_wire_install_2

-Mount the Cartridge
5. Connect the m44-7 or preferred cartridge to the tonearm wires
6. Mount the m44-7 to the headshell, by placing the nut on the topside of the headshell, and the screw/washer on the cartridge side (see pic_4_mount_m447)

pic_4_mount_m447
pic_4_mount_m447

-Install the Tonearm (David) Axle Rod
7. Place the tonearm on the tonearm base
8. Push the side of the rod that does not have a star on it through the tonearm (see pic_5_install_rod)

pic_5_install_rod
pic_5_install_rod

9. Guide the rod through the tonearm, metal tonearm base of the turntable, and opposite side of the tonearm
10. Press fit the star side of the rod into the tonearm plastic using a needle nose pliers (pic_6_press_fit_rod)

pic_6_press_fit_rod
pic_6_press_fit_rod

-Install Rubber Band Counterweight
11. Wrap the rubber band around the headshell side of the tonearm, and slide it towards the tonearm base (see pic_7_add_rubber_band)

pic_7_add_rubber_band
pic_7_add_rubber_band

12. Wrap the rubber band around the metal tonearm base (not the plastic part of the tonearm), and pull towards the back (see pic_8_rubber_band_base)

pic_8_rubber_band_base
pic_8_rubber_band_base

13. Align the rubber band with the grooves on the back of the tonearm, and attach to a tonearm peg (see pic_9_rubber_band_peg)

pic_9_rubber_band_peg
pic_9_rubber_band_peg

14. Adjust rubber band tension to control counterweight (see 3D printed tonearm counterweight adjustment guide)

Posted on Leave a comment

Tonearm Removal

Featured Video Play Icon

 

How to Remove the Tonearm from the Numark PT01

Parts needed:
straight pick, or thin metal rod (less than 2mm diameter)
-needle nose pliers (any and optional)

notes:
-the pin used for the tonearm axle has a star on one end
-the star does not fit through the metal part of the tonearm base
-the star must be pushed away from the tonearm to remove the pin
-the pics show a version of the tonearm that needs to be pushed from the inside out. try this first
-if pushing inside out doesn’t work, try pushing from the outside in, like in the video

-Remove the Tonearm Axle
1. Remove the tonearm axle by pushing the pin out with a straight pick (see pic_1_remove_pin)

pic_1_remove_pin
pic_1_remove_pin

-Remove Spring
2. Remove the spring, which attaches the tonearm to the tonearm base (see pic_2_remove_spring)

pic_2_remove_spring
pic_2_remove_spring

-Disconnect Wires
3. Disconnect the wires from the needle cartridge (see pic_3_disconnect_wires)

pic_3_disconnect_wires
pic_3_disconnect_wires

-Remove Wire from Tonearm
4. The tonearm wire is connected to the tonearm with adhesive. Hold the insulated part of the wire (not the tiny wires) and pull the wire away from the tonearm. see pic_4_remove_wire and pic_5_removed

pic_4_remove_wire
pic_4_remove_wire
pic_5_removed
pic_5_removed
Posted on Leave a comment

Supercollider MIDI Synth for Flesh MIDI Mod

Screenshot

This post describes a MIDI controlled software synthesizer intended for use with a scratch mixer having a Flesh MIDI Mod. The synth is built entirely in the programming language Supercollider 3. Sounds, which are generated using Supercollider’s unit generators, can be controlled externally via MIDI. The software synthesizer allows for simultaneous playback of sound loops and the software synthesizer. Example sound files are given to illustrate the functions of the synth.

Details on the next page…

Posted on Leave a comment

Orban 111b Spring Reverb Model

orban_face

The goal of this project is to learn a bit about modeling spring reverbs. The goal of this project is not to model an entire spring reverb unit through circuit analysis, but to take a look at it’s response by testing it with audio signals. The unit under test is the Orban 111b spring reverb. Details on how the springs affect audio, and how the springs look in the Orban 111b will be discussed. The tests will be presented and results will be posted.

Details on the next page…

Posted on Leave a comment

Custom Fader Cap for Rane 56

When I got my first Rane 56 mixer, the fader had a very pointed triangular cap. I definitely preferred the square fader caps used by Vestax. So, with the help of a master craftsman (Jesse), I designed and built a few custom Rane 56 fader caps. These caps have square, smooth edges with a lightly sanded surface (for a soft touch type feel).

Rane 56 Custom Fader Cap

Info about the build on the next page…

Posted on Leave a comment

PS3 Controller Mod (adding Xbox analog sticks)

Yesterday, I finished modding a couple PS3 controllers by replacing the PS3 analog stick caps with Xbox stick caps. I used third party red caps, cause they look bad-ass. I wouldn’t usually post such a simple mod, but it turned out to be a bit messy. I thought it would be useful to add my two cents to the mod.

Info on the mod on the next page…

Posted on 4 Comments

Flesh Modulation (FM) Effect

The Flesh modulation Effect is a FM transmitter audio effect. It has a stereo analog input (Line level), and transmits FM radio at it’s output.

The user has real time control of volume, input gain, modulation, dither, transmit level, and pilot level. The antenna can be removed and replaced with different antenna lengths (which affects transmit level).

Read more..